Over-wintering Many of our favorites can be over-wintered in their own pots, including tender herbaceous ones like impatiens, geraniums (below left), parsely, basil, and other herbs; shrubby ones like azaleas, hibiscus, fuschias and rosemary (right), and even some vines like mandevilla and passionflower.
In most cases, you must cut back the plants quite drastically (especially the vines and geraniums) to ensure that they will be full and bushy, and to minimize the shock of the climate change on the plant. Keep pinching back new shoots to encourage bushiness throughout the winter on flowering plants, vines, fuschia and rosemary. Pinch back basil and other herbs to keep from getting leggy. Dry the herb trimmings for later use if you have more than you need at one time. When you bring in your plants for the winter, check to see if they are pot-bound and pot up in a one-size larger pot if they are. You should do this in spring when you put them outside, rather than fall, but better late than never.
If you are digging up plants from the garden, leave as much native soil on the roots as you can to cause the least disturbance, and pot up in appropriate sized pots, adding soil-less mixture as required to fill. Water all your plants well then bring in and put under lights. For more information, see Fall Cleanup - the section on bringing plants indoors. See Houseplant Helper and Plant Problems for more information and tips on indoor care. Mist them well when they are in place. Keep the room as cool as you can until they begin to acclimatize to the indoor environment. Then gradually let the temperature rise if necessary. | Raising from seed or cuttings Seeds: Many of our favorite flowering plants and herbs must be started in January to March for summer bloom, for example, schizanthus and impatiens, and the purple basil below. Others can be started as late as one month before planting-out after last frost. In all cases, use the plastic flats with the inserts to hold individual plants (usually 12" by 24"- bottom portion is shown in the top photo). These come in kits with a clear plastic top that keeps humidity in and lets light through. Read the planting instructions carefully, as some seed cannot be covered with soil (e.g. impatiens). See the Seed Starter list for starting different types of seeds. Time the lights for 14-16 hours a day, and place 1 inch above the top of the plastic cover. Once the first pair of true leaves emerges, lift one end of the plastic cover up for a few days to gradually accustom the seedlings to the drier air before removing it. Plants like tomatoes and peppers may get tall and leggy very quickly. Simply repot, planting the seedling deeper in a slightly larger pot. Tomatoes and peppers root from the stem, so progressively deeper plantings as they grow indoors helps them develop large, deep root systems to get a good foothold in the garden later. If you find that they are growing far too quickly, cut back on the light to about 10-12 hours a day. See Seedling Helper for more information. Cuttings: Tip cuttings from coleus at left, bottom of the stem to just below a leaf node and remove the bottom leaves. Remove any flower buds and nip off the growing tip to just above a leaf node.
Place the cutting in moist growing medium, and cover with a transparent cover to keep moisture in. Plastic placed over a wire "cage" made of bent coat-hanger wire works well. Secure the plastic around the pot with an elastic band. Place in bright location or under lights that are 4 inches above the cuttings, but NOT in direct sun until signs of new growth appear. For more information on cuttings and propagating plants, see Plant Propagation. |